It’s the soup dumplings that saved the summer of the Big Apple.
Our slow, outdoor-focused dining scene needed a lift.
The end of last year saw big openings from Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Daniel Boulud and Andrew Carmellini, but the last few months have been much less exciting – and the new autumn crop looks thin.
Thankfully, there has been a big bright spot recently. Oddly enough, it’s a 425-seat chain restaurant from Taiwan, in a location that was the last home of the space-themed tourist trap Mars 2112.
Like the Paris Olympics, Din Tai Fung (1633 Broadway, Midtown, DinTaiFungUSA.com) which opened a month ago, has brought some excitement to the waning weeks before Labor Day.
His famous Xiao Long Bao helped spark the soup craze in New York, which began fifteen or so years ago at Shanghai Joe’s in Chinatown, although Din Tai Fung didn’t quite make it here until now.
They were worth the wait – and the trouble to get inside.
Din Tai Fung occupies 26,000 square feet of the underground level at Broadway and West 51st Street. An elevator takes you from the street-level plaza to a spacious, multi-section floor plan designed by Rockwell Group. There are a multitude of nooks, crannies and bamboo screens, all supposedly inspired by a Chinese courtyard house and garden.
It is the first New York outpost among Din Tai Fung’s 180 locations worldwide, including 16 in the US. Â
Such globe-trotting, Chinese-themed empires usually spawn 1,000-year-old Manhattan eggs—remember the quick-fire Da Dong and Hakkasan?
But unlike those flops, Din Tai Fung isn’t going away for long.
The menu is divided into categories such as appetizers, noodles, noodles and wok dishes. But the soup dumplings ($18 to $19 for ten) “filled with pork, pork and crab or chicken” are the act to catch.
They are gathered inside a glass-walled room by an army of cooks wearing surgical masks and white T-shirts and aprons. They resemble lab technicians as they squeeze, pour and fold with military precision.
The soup dumplings are smaller and firmer than the standard New York items, which often wiggle on the spoon like jellyfish and gush like geysers at the first bite.
Din Tai Fung are as nice to the touch as al dente rigatoni, thanks to an 18-step, one-minute hand-folding process that folds the skin of each noodle perfectly and achieves the so-called “golden ratio” with delicious filling. Â
The ginger-colored liquid pours just enough without wetting you. The fillings are silky on the tongue and explosive on the palate.
My favorites were the ones filled with Kurobata pork and crab meat tender enough for a child to eat. The fiery chili base sauce adds an extra dimension of indulgence.
I also enjoyed the chewy, sliced ​​meat over egg white rice and the modestly named “cucumber salad,” a cool, refreshing garlic-chili-sesame affair that’s the best thing in a day or steamy night.
Too bad the booking portal on the website is almost useless. On Wednesday, for example, it showed no available booking options. A “check the wait time” box charmingly said “the place is not taking reservations right now – try again later”.
They don’t take walks, although they seem to have room for them.
On both of my visits, I was dismayed but not surprised that about 25% of the seats were empty, despite the months-long waiting list.
The servers told me that the intentional reservation is simply to “make sure the staff is up to speed.”
I suspect there may be other calculations at play.
Din Tai Fung is based in Taipei, but knows that New York drills for the above short-term profit to generate long-term demand.
Either way, I can’t wait to go back to try the black pepper noodles, soups and filet – if I can get a table.
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Image Source : nypost.com